21.Neuropeptide - Amino Polypeptide Skin Care Comparison

To determine why neuropeptide products are different from other effective antiaging skin care treatmentson the market, we first have to determine the difference between neuropeptide and amino polypetide ingredients.

Neuro- and pentapaptides are both peptides but 'neuro' refers to the very specific functions of this peptide group, while 'penta' merely refers to the size of certain peptide molecules.? Peptide seems to be the 'IT' word in antiaging skin creams today. We have copper peptides, amino-polypeptides, hexapeptides, pentapeptides and now neuropeptides. And then there are all the variants like acetyl hexapeptide-3 and palmitoyl pentapeptide (a.k.a palmitoyl oligopeptide). The list is virtually endless and very confusing to the non-biochemist. Let me try to help you wade through some of the jargon.

A peptide is simply a small protein which is made up of amino acids. Peptides are active at very small doses, are highly specific and have a very good safety profile when used physiologically ? that is, to assist or change an organism's physical processes. If we take apart some of the peptide labels above, we can begin to discriminate among them.The use of 'amino' in amino- polypeptide is a bit redundant because all peptides are made of amino acids. The 'poly' just means this is a peptide of several amino acids. A 'hexapeptide' is a chain of exactly six (hexa) amino acids; a pentatpeptide is a chain of five (penta). One chemist working with a palmitoylated five-amino-acid-chain peptide named it 'palmitoyl pentapeptide', while another chemist studying the same molecule called it 'palmitoyl oligopeptide'. This is a legitimate, though less specific, label since 'oligo' means 'few'. And so the confusion grows.The term 'neuropeptide' is a bit more helpful in that it actually describes the function of the peptide.

Neuropeptides act as neuromodulators, neurotransmitters, neurohormones, and hormones.

Research into neuropeptides has exploded in recent years to the extent that there is a scientific journal named Neuropeptides whose aim is the rapid publication of original research and review articles, dealing with the structure, distribution, actions and functions of peptides in the central and peripheral nervous systems.What is exciting about neuropeptides is their power and reach. Other neurotransmitters transmit central nervous system signals in one direction and along a path from A to B. Neuropeptides transmit omnidirectionally outward and can even direct transmissions in reverse.

As neuromodulators, they can activate and deactivate other neurotransmitters. The scientific mind boggles at the potential.The names of some of the neuropeptides may be familiar and help you to understand the potential of unlocking the secrets of these peptide molecules.

Neuropeptides are grouped into families based on similarities in their amino acid sequences. There are the Tachykinins; the Insulins; the Somatostatins; the Gastrins such as cholecystokinin used to diagnose gallbladder and pancreatic problems; and the Opioids such as the enkephalins 'the body's own opiates or painkillers.As to how neuropeptides might affect the skin, an abstract in the July/August 2003 Brazilian Annals of Dermatology states: There is increasing evidence that cutaneous nerve fibers play a modulatory role in a variety of acute and chronic skin processes. Local interactions between skin cells, skin immune components and neuronal tissues occur specially through neuropeptides. Neuropeptide-related functions on skin and immune cells, as well as nerve fibers in cutaneous inflammatory responses, hypersensitivity reactions and dermatoses, namely psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, leprosy and alopecia."

Author : ContentMart editor
For reference and full story go to http://www.contentmart.com/articles/28940/1/Neuropeptide---Amino-Polypeptide-Skin-Care-Comparison/Page1.html

20. How do we treat Psoriasis ?

There can be substantial variation between individuals in the effectiveness of specific psoriasis treatments. Because of this,dermatologist often use a trial-and-error approach to finding the most appropriate treatment for their patient. The decision to employ a particular treatment is based on the type of psoriasis, its location, extent and severity. The patient’s age, gender, quality of life, comorbidities, and attitude toward risks associated with the treatment are also taken into consideration.
Medications with the least potential for adverse reactions are preferentially employed. If the treatment goal is not achieved then therapies with greater potential toxicity may be used. Medications with significant toxicity are reserved for severe unresponsive psoriasis. This is called the psoriasis treatment ladder.

As a first step, medicated ointment or creams, called topical treatments, are applied to the skin such as topical corticosteroids, tars, anthralin, calcipotriene (a vitamin D3 analog), or tazarotene (a retinoid).

If topical treatment fails to achieve the desired goal then the next step would be to expose the skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This type of treatment is called phototherapy. Treatment with oral psoralens plus ultraviolet A exposure, called PUVA, is effective in most patients, but has been associated with an increased risk of skin cancers after many treatments over several years. Recently, narrowband UVB has been introduced for the treatment of psoriasis. It uses a narrow portion of the spectrum of ultraviolet B around 311nm, the spectrum which is optimal for the treatment of psoriasis. Narrowband UVB is more effective than traditional broadband UVB, but may be somewhat less effective than PUVA. In the few years since it has been available, it has not been associated with the skin cancer risks seen in patients treated with PUVA.

The third step involves the use of medications which are taken internally by pill or injection.. This approach is called systemic treatment. Oral retinoids, cyclosporine, and methotrexate have also been used for treatment of severe generalized psoriasis, erythrodermic psoriasis, and pustular psoriasis. Most recently, biologic agents such as Alefacept, Efalizumab, Etanercept, Infliximab, and Adlimumab have been introduced for the treatment of psoriasis.

Over time, psoriasis can become resistant to a specific therapy. Treatments may be periodically changed to prevent resistance developing (tachyphylaxis) and to reduce the chance of adverse reactions occurring. This is called treatment rotation.

19. Types of Psoriasis

The symptoms of psoriasis can manifest in a variety of forms. There are four classical clinical types of psoriasis
a. Plaque psoriasis (psoriasis vulgaris) is the most common form of psoriasis. It is characterized by sharply demarcated erythematous scaling plaques (as figured) It most commonly occurs on the elbows and knees, scalp and groin. Nail involvement is common, e.g., yellow discoloration, thickening, and lifting of the nail plate off of the distal nail bed (onycholysis).
b. Guttate psoriasis is characterized by numerous small oval (teardrop-shaped) spots. These numerous spots of psoriasis appear over large areas of the body, such as the trunk, limbs, and scalp. It commonly occurs after streptococcal pharyngitis.
c. Pustular psoriasis appears as raised bumps that are filled with non-infectious pus (pustules). The skin under and surrounding pustules is red and tender. Pustular psoriasis can be localised, commonly to the hands and feet (palmoplantar pustulosis), or generalised with widespread patches occurring randomly on any part of the body.
d. Erythrodermic psoriasis involves the widespread inflammation and exfoliation of the skin over most of the body surface. It may be accompanied by severe itching, swelling and pain. It is often the result of an exacerbation of unstable plaque psoriasis, particularly following the abrupt withdrawal of systemic treatment. This form of psoriasis can be life-threatening, as the extreme inflammation and exfoliation disrupt the body's ability to regulate temperature and for the skin to perform barrier functions.

18. Can we cure the melasma ?

While there is no cure for melasma, many treatments have been developed. The discoloration usually disappears spontaneously after pregnancy or stopping the oral contraceptives. Management of melasma requires a comprehensive and professional approach by your dermatologist.
Treatments to hasten the fading of the discolored patches include:
a. Topical depigmenting agents, such as hydroquinone (HQ) either in over-the-counter (2%) or prescription (4%) strength. HQ is a chemical that inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the production of melanin.
b. Tretinoin an acid that increases skin cell (keratinocyte) turnover. This treatment cannot be used during pregnancy.
c. Azelaic acid (20%), thought to decrease the activity of melanocytes.
d. Facial peel with alpha hydroxyacids or chemical peels with glycolic acid.
e. Laser treatment. A Wood’s lamp test should be used to determine whether the melasma is epidermal or dermal. If the melasma is dermal, laser (or "IPL") will acually DARKEN and worsen the appearance of the spots. Dermal melasma is generally unresponsive to most treaments, and has only been found to lighten with products containing mandelic acid.

In all of these treatments the effects are gradual and a strict avoidance of sunlight is required. The use of broad-spectrum sunscreens with physical blockers, such as titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide is preferred over that with only chemical blockers. This is because UV-A, UV-B and visible lights are all capable of stimulating pigment production. Cosmetic cover-ups can also be used to reduce the appearance of melasma.

17. What is Melasma ?

Melasma (also known as chloasma or the mask of pregnancy when present in pregnant woman) is a skin condition presenting as brown patches on the face of adults. Both sides of the face are usually affected. The most common sites are the cheeks, bridge of nose, forehead, and upper lip. It is particularly common in women, especially pregnant women and those who are taking oral contraceptives. (However, hormone replacement therapy used after menopause has not been shown to cause the condition.) Ultraviolet light from the sun, and even very strong light from light bulbs, can stimulate melanocytes and contributes to melasma. Incidental exposure to the sun is mainly the reason for recurrences of melasma. Melasma is not associated with any internal diseases or organ malfunction.
Since it is very common, and has a characteristic appearance, most patients can be diagnosed simply by a skin examination.

16. Botox Bag

The Botox Bag is a crocodile handbag designed by Zagliani. According to reports, the line is developed by dermatologist, Mauro Orietti-Carella who injects the bags with Botox to make the skins softer and the texture more even, although other reports say botox is not used but rather silicone.

Fast Facts:
Retail Price : #3,000 - $11,000
Who has it: Jennifer Lopez, Alex Curran, Madonna

15. What is Psoriasis ?

Psoriasis is a disease which affects the skin and joints. It commonly causes red scaly patches to appear on the skin. The scaly patches caused by psoriasis, called psoriatic plaques, are areas of inflammation and excessive skin production. Skin rapidly accumulates at these sites and takes a silvery-white appearance. Plaques frequently occur on the skin of the elbows and knees, but can affect any area including the scalp and genitals. Psoriasis is hypothesized to be immune-mediated and is not contagious.
The disorder is a chronic recurring condition which varies in severity from minor localised patches to complete body coverage. Fingernails and toenails are frequently affected (psoriatic nail dystrophy) - and can be seen as an isolated finding. Psoriasis can also cause inflammation of the joints, which is known as psoriatic arthritis. Ten to fifteen percent of people with psoriasis have psoriatic arthritis.
The cause of psoriasis is not known, but it is believed to have a genetic component. Several factors are thought to aggravate psoriasis. These include stress, excessive alcohol consumption, and smoking. Individuals with psoriasis may suffer from depression and loss of self-esteem. As such, quality of life is an important factor in evaluating the severity of the disease. There are many treatments available but because of its chronic recurrent nature psoriasis is a challenge to treat.